Information Pages
Galleries
Links
Take care when charging your batteries. Batteries give off explosive gas (Hydrogen) when charging so a good safety tip is to charge your batteries outside the boat or properly ventilate the area where the batteries are housed before operation. A hydrogen gas explosion inside your model will ruin a good day of sailing. Never leave your batteries on charge unattended.
Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate) usage. Super Glue (CA) will glue everything together instantly, this includes skin and fingers. It is a good idea to keep a bottle of debonder around for emergencies. You can get it at the local hobby shop. CA also gives off some strong fumes which can irritate eyes and sinuses. Make sure you have good ventilation in your work area.
Fast Electric boat propellers. The natural urge to lift a boat under the keel and steady it by holding the stern can lead you to the worst manicure you will ever have. FE boat props can be very sharp and may start at any time, and can easily slice into your fingers if you are not cautious. So be careful of handling boats of this type, or any boat model with a metal or hard plastic prop.
Launch and recover safely. Before you walk down to the shore with model and radio in hand check out the launch area. Look for loose or undercut shoreline. Make sure there are no tree roots to trip you. Falling face first into the water on top of your model will ruin your day and your boat. Look carefully into the water for rocks or debris lurking, ready to punch a hole in a unsuspecting hull. Take a look at the water you will be running in. Debris in the water can do allot of damage.
R/C Rule #1 Make sure your frequency is open.
R/C Rule #2 Transmitter on first, off last.
R/C Rule #3 Be courteous, share pond time and space.
NEVER, ever under any circumstances swim out to retrieve a stranded model. Every few years word goes around of somebody swimming after their model and drowning in the attempt. If you stop to consider it, how will you swim back to shore holding your model?
General Tips and Pearls of Wisdom.
Adhesive compatibility: When building a model with a preformed hull of fiberglass or plastic make sure the adhesive you use is compatible with that material. From personal knowledge I can speak to this subject. Several years ago I purchased a Kyosho Fairwind sailboat. The ballast is lead shot which has to be set in the keel. The hull on this boat is a one piece ABS plastic molded part. The keel is hollow and the shot is poured into the keel and then set with adhesive. The adhesive I used was not compatible with the plastic and it began to soften wherever the adhesive came into contact with it. It took a month for the residual adhesive to dissolve and quit attacking the hull. I was forced to build a cofferdam around the keel and set the shot with two part epoxy, which also became the lower part of the keel. This lesson came with a healthy tuition which I paid. So, take the benefit from my education and check the compatibility of your adhesives.
For setting lead shot ballast in any type of boat, try canning (paraffin) wax. It will melt with a hairdryer, or even in the microwave, and pours like water into position. It can be removed anytime by scraping or re-heating. It’s cheap, too.
Disabled vessel retrieval: If you will be out running alone you may want to consider having a plan to retrieve your boat if it stalls on the water. There are several methods. The first is to have a second boat along to push in the stranded boat. A second often used but somewhat hazardous method is to use a fishing pole to cast a line out and snag the model. This method could lead to breaking details or accidentally rolling the boat over. The third method is to wait for the wind or current to move the model within reach. The best method that we have found is to have other modelers around to help out when you break down. Our member Randy Forster made a retrieval boat for just such occasions. Remember, if your boat isn't equipped with OnStar™ you need a retrieval plan.
Randy's retriever in action.
NEVER, ever under any circumstances swim out to retrieve a stranded model. Every few years word goes around of somebody swimming after their model and drowning in the attempt. If you stop to consider it, how will you swim back to shore holding your model? If your sure you have seen this before you have. This one can't be repeated enough.
Using fiberglass resin and cloth: Fiberglassing a boat hull may seem like a daunting task but it does not need to be. Your hobby supplier has all the necessary items you will need to get it done. Some modelers use automotive (Bondo brand) polyester resin. Take note that automotive fiberglass cloth is heavier in weight than the usual hobby shop cloth. If weight is not an issue auto grade cloth will give a thicker, stronger hull. This is useful in boats which will be abused.
A few tricks I use for fiberglassing:
Cut the cloth as closely to the shape as possible but leave sufficient extra to allow positioning it. Pre fit it often before committing.
When you are using fiberglass resin wear rubber gloves!! Also work in a well ventilated area. Even if the resin you are using does not give off a strong odor it is not wise to inhale the fumes.
Everyone who has used polyester resin has had some doubts when mixing the resin with the hardener. Screw up the mix and the stuff will not set. I have found mixing resin accurately is easiest using a 1oz. disposable measuring cup. These are available from Great Planes Manufacturing through your hobby dealer. Pour as many 1oz increments into a non waxed container (read NO Dixie cups) as is required for the job. I recommend not using plastic drink cups either because they are flimsy and may break while mixing. Save those for your toast to success. You can use the measuring cup from a bleach or fabric softener bottle (just don't let the person who does the laundry in your house catch you). Another source of disposable measuring cups is a laboratory supply company, or American Science & Surplus. Follow the directions on the resin can for the number of drops to add per 1oz then mix accordingly and thoroughly. Popsicle sticks make great stir sticks for resin. You can also move the cloth with them or do spot smoothing during glassing. I forced myself to eat many popsicles just for the sticks.
I apply a coat of resin to the hull, then saturate the cloth with resin before laying it on the hull. Use your paint brush to work out air pockets under the cloth. Remember you have limited working time (about 15 minutes). The usual setup time is about an hour till dry to the touch. Humidity will affect the curing so if you have a damp basement it may take longer. Some resins have a strong odor so take that into account when deciding where to work. Ultraviolet light will speed up curing so working in direct sunlight will cut your working time significantly. If you have a hull that refuses to fully cure let it bake in the sun for a day or two and it should set up.
If using a piece of cloth that is larger than the area to be covered, it is easiest to trim the scrap before the resin hardens. Look for resin that has the consistency of taffy (just a bit sticky and very stiff). The extra cloth can be sliced away with a sharp knife. Once hard, it must be removed with a grinder.
When you sand the hull be sure to wear a dust mask. Disposable ones are available at hardware stores and home centers. Sanding fiberglass is messy, and sometimes itchy.
Inevitably you will have some surface defects. They can be filled and smoothed with automotive spot putty. Large defects can be filled by mixing a small amount of resin and filling the defect. Make sure you prep the area by sanding and wiping down with at least alcohol, but Acetone is more effective. Acetone is a strong chemical so read the label for proper use and handling. A good rule to follow for all chemicals.
To learn more about radio control see the R/C Information Page.
